The Ponds and Bogs at Altamont House, Staten Island |
If you live in a village, as I do, you are unlikely to be blessed (or cursed, depending on your temperament) with stagnant pools. But if you are further out in township territory this may be a problem for you.
What are we to do with them? You can try a windmill. It sounds incongruous, but you see them often on farms oxygenating stagnant ponds. If you have electricity, you can aerate by adding pumps and filters. Or you can leave these ponds alone, providing only appropriate plants and animals that can function efficiently as oxygenators -- the practice in conservation areas. You can then add frogs, goldfish, koi and water plants The pond will remain clear as long as the proper balance is kept.
Although bog plants are described as needing percolating ponds and moving streams, in my years at Altamont House in Staten Island’s High Rock Park they seemed to flourish in still water. The bogs were originally low-lying areas of meadow and woodland, but suburbanization interrupted the natural drainage patterns permanently, leaving us with self-contained bodies of water—but only during the rainy seasons. In periods of drought the ponds became bogs, as the natural flow of water into the ocean was interrupted by the houses and roadways developed along the borders of High Rock Park in the post-war years.
The three bog/ponds were handsome, filled with water willow and button bush and not entirely devoid of wildlife. A mother duck, six ducklings in tow, made the trek daily from pond to pond to introduce her babies to the water. A pair of Giant Snowy Egrets were considering it as their home base early one season, stayed around for a day or two and then headed out to find a more suitable home.
Turtles made their way out of the muddy bottom to lay their eggs in the gravel driveway. We had to keep our eyes on the ground so that we didn’t tread on the nests. When the eggs were laid the mothers disappeared, leaving the eggs to fend for themselves. We marked the site with bricks and twigs so the trash carriers would notice.
Rumor has it that the resident turtles were of the snapping variety. They would usually line up in a row on a log in the middle of the bog, sunning themselves. Snapping turtles are said to eat anything they can get their jaws around, including baby ducks, but we never saw any sign of that.
I was encouraged enough by the behavior of our waterside plants to give them companions which were said to be equally undemanding. Milkweed was reported to attract Monarch butterflies and BeeBalm to do the same for hummingbirds. Large hibiscus flourished in neighboring Walker Pond and I harvested a few seeds at the end the season. Joe pye-weed, the common skunk cabbage, cardinal flower and blue and yellow flag iris were all plants that did well with their feet in the water.
If you are determined to create a bog garden from scratch it’s best to start with a swampy, low-lying spot. A poorly drained area that is already giving you problems can be transformed into a natural habitat filled with wildlife. The marginal plants (those that grow best in wet soils) will also tolerate periodic dry conditions as well. Just make sure your site is away from deciduous trees so that you won’t have a leaf-removal problem in the fall.
The instructions below give you details on just how to do this. Read to the end before you even think of starting. Water gardens can become very seductive but if you find yourself tired from just reading the instructions below, go out and buy a big Chinese ceramic pot, fill it with water and set it in a shady spot. Add a few goldfish. That may be just enough.
Further Notes to The Committed: How To Build a Bog Garden
First, select your spot. Then mark the area with a string, measure it, and calculate the amount of soil that will have to be removed to achieve a minimum depth of eighteen inches. Line the hole with a plastic liner, then lay a length of perforated pipe or hose along the bottom. Seal the submerged end, and make sure the inlet connector is clear of the final soil line and easily accessible so that you can introduce water when needed.
Cover the hose with an inch or two of coarse gravel to make sure the holes don’t become clogged with all that soil you removed and now are going to replace. Before doing so, pierce the plastic liner with a garden fork every few feet.
Replace the soil, removing all weeds and rocks along the way. Make sure the soil is good and loamy, using additives if necessary. The soil will now be higher than its previous level but will settle with watering. Give it time and don’t pack or tamp it down, or you will break up the soil structure. Once the original soil level has been reached, you can start planting.
If your plans are ambitious, your bog garden can be associated with a fishpond, where it will act as a filter. The pond’s nutrient load created by fish wastewater can be recirculated through the bog garden, providing nutrients to the bog plants and cleaner water to the fish.